Recently I had a telephone conversation with a friend and former colleague. We were having a lively conversation regarding an Italian fashion photographer, who recently passed away, who we both worked with, side by side with during New York Fashion Week. While we exchanged stories involving this larger than life individual, we regimented about our personal history with photographing fashion shows at New York Fashion Week. Here is a small part of my story. I realize not everyone is interested in fashion week or fashion as a whole. Looking back at these memories of my life experiences are certainly keys to my professional and personal successes.
I was hired to work in the photography studio, at Fairchild Publications in August of 1990, as the coordinator of the photography department. I was a kid, at 22 years old when I joined Fairchild Publications. I had a long love of photography, even at that young age. My photography work experience, at that time, was working in my high school darkroom and photography studio. I knew nothing about fashion and the fashion world. Do not cue up “The Devil Wears Prada” just yet. I read fashion magazines before my employment at Fairchild Publications. However, I did not live the fashion life.
With the help and guidance of the editors, advertising sales personnel, and my colleagues, I learned all about the fashion business, from the ground up. What thread, fabric and button choice a designer made could make or break a whole line. What model or creative visual decision could make or break a brand or story? How do you interpret an editor’s written story while being creative and true to the publication you are working for? I encountered and learned so much on this job. It was one of the best educations I ever could have received.
New York Fashion Week is produced twice a year. I sat back, in the office, for my first year at Fairchild Publications. Come September of the following year, I was able to help the guys and girls on staff, at the fashion show locations. Fashion Week Shows and presentations were held in hotels, empty spaces, landmark buildings, showrooms or any other place the designer felt told their story further. The shows and presentations were on a much smaller scale than they are now. I was a nobody, standing in place-holding a spot for the staff photographers, at these various New York City locations. I had no connections or relationships to the other photographers or press or designers. The foreigner press photographers who had been covering the world of fashion week, for many years, took me in, as one of their own.
Holding spots for the staff photographers was exhilarating and frustrating at the same time. Experiencing a new type of work experience was thrilling. I had the pleasure of meeting fashion designers( Louis Dell olio, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg), public relations person, editors, and many other people involved in the fashion world. I was excited and like a sponge-listening, learning and leaning into the world of commercial photography. It was frustrating because I wanted to photograph the shows and was not allowed at first. Some of the personalities of the pit crew photographers were abrasive, rude, and masochistic.
Tensions could be high right before the lights went down, at the start of a fashion show. Not having the spot or place in the crew pit that you wanted could be frustrating for you or your editor. We used film cameras in those days so your exposure was so critical. Running to the photo lab, editing the slide film, and keeping track of all of the film was an added responsibility to the job. I had one fashion show where I thought I lost a roll of film. Not only did I get yelled at by the main photographer, I had a bit of an anxiety breakdown. I did not lose the roll of film. It was deep in my bag at the time we were gathering the film for the film lab run. I never made that mistake again-losing track of the exposed film.
Over some time, the photographer staff and I created a rhythm with trust and expectation to support each other and to deliver the photography images needed for the publications we serviced. There were many times I waited in line, outdoors in the cold or rain, to be led in ahead of the line of photographers to wait for the staff photographers in the pit. Jocking for a space that provided a fantastic point of view was either a pain in the ass or easy. Pain in the ass was when someone else wanted your space, or made deals to move you or your team just because. I had to answer to my team. So I learned to be tough and not move at all. You need me to move? - f*** off, I would say out loud. Not moving. Yes, I created a bit of a reputation of a hard ass but I wanted the team to have the best spot for their photographs.
There were many times I was the photography assistant, loading camera bodies of film, squished tightly between a stranger’s legs and other body parts. Sometimes there were tears and stress because of the long hours and egos involved. Stress could also be from not capturing an outfit because of camera malfunction or film jam. Or maybe someone’s elbow jabbed you while the show was going on or someone dropped their spare camera on your back during the live show. Fashion week photography coverage could be front of house, meaning photographing the runway action or back of the house, where the HMUA & styling occurs. I always felt it was a privilege to see these beautiful garments up close and have a sense of unity amongst the creatives involved in composing a finished look.
Photographing backstage was calmer than in front of the house, usually. When it got closer to the actual show time, the small backstage area had more photographers and videographers creating their stories all at once. Many makeup artists or hairstylists were annoyed with our presence, crowding them in for our visual images. I tried to perform my job while not being a nuance. I did annoy a few creatives from time to time, with not moving out of their way quickly enough to get my photograph. In the end, we all understood we were there for a reason and not to take it personally.
I attended a large number of fashion shows and presentations while I worked for Fairchild publications and as a freelance photographer. One of my all-time favorite fashion week shows was Alexander McQueen’s New York show in 1996. I was the second photographer for that fashion show. The pageantry and performance of the entire show was something I had never seen before. Models flying high above you. Models walking through a pool of water. Models looking like creators of another universe. It was magnificent. I was caught looking over my camera a few times by my photography partner. The fashion show was so surreal. I did photograph all the outfits but I did not want to miss a moment. Watch the video of this show on Youtube if you can. It was a tough job fitting in a male dominant field.
While you were appreciated for your skill, sometimes your sex made some of the male photographers snarky and cruel. I was belittled early on, by another photographer, who felt I did not know enough about being a skilled photographer. While I felt wounded, my exterior showed no emotion. I got very good at deflection working in that pit crew. There were times of poor behavior amongst the crew pit of photographers. There were other times when we all worked as a unit. Making sure all in the pit had a clear view of their photographs and videos.
When I left Fairchild Publications and worked as a freelance photographer, one of my main employers was someone I met at the New York Fashion Shows. I worked many long hours with this new employer and loved every minute of it. I met many individuals, from all walks of life from fashion week. I also fostered those relationships I made from many years ago, when I was the newbie photography assistant. When I was contracted to photograph for a major sponsor for New York Fashion Week, it was the connections and photographers I have known, all those years, that helped me secure a space in front of the house to create amazing images for my client. I made many friendships and business connections from my time photographing New York Fashion Week.
Were there moments of outbursts and yelling? Yes there were. Were there fights amongst the pit crew? Yes, occasionally. Was it hard work? Yes it could be. Yes, there were also times of silliness and joy from photographing a fashion show where all involved were on the same page-shouting out funny jabs or comments at each other. Like any other business, there were fashion shows that were not great. Many fashion shows were super fun and full of joy. My experience is just that, my experience. Now, you can queue up “The Devil Wears Prada”.
Lisa Ramsay, Professional Photographer / Producer / Production Manager / PhotoArtDirector
April 2020
